Europe: France, Belgium, Netherlands, Germany, Italy and Switzerland.

This tour of Europe was a long time in planning and is the type of driving that I originally bought the car for. The advantage of planning your own route and itinerary is that it is tailored and personalised to what you want to get out of the tour. So, my tour may not be for everyone but I have few regrets and many fantastic memories and driving experiences.

The car had been well maintained before I purchased it and under my ownership had its minor service carried out in 2018, after a slight leak was spotted from the coolant system all the pipework was replaced complete with the fitment of a Hartec recommended thermostat. I laid the car off over the winter preceding the tour to overhaul the aircon system that including two replacement condensers and dryer to provide an ice cool blast. I also took the opportunity to fit grills on the air intakes to prevent any future damage to the condensers. A couple of new front tyres (Michelin Pilot Pro Sport 4) were fitted as final preparation for the tour.

The Cayman is a two-seater car, a driver and navigator, but my navigator is reluctant and more suited to being a passenger, with the occasional words of travel wisdom. The route and accommodation were planned in advance with the majority being two-night stays to spread the mileage and provide some opportunity to visit and appreciate stop over locations.

Tour summary:

5 June – Home to Bruges

An early start around 6:30 to get to Eurotunnel at Folkestone at the front end of the allocated two-hour slot and with some contingency for the M25. All goes smoothly and we are offered an earlier crossing at no extra charge so we’re off to a flying start. My reluctant navigator complained about the standard of the hard copy maps but finally, with the aid of google maps, pointed me in the direction of our first Hotel.

This booking also included secure parking for €15 a night but parking is limited in Bruges so it’s worthwhile for the peace of mind. With the car parked up under lock and key we spent the remainder of the afternoon walking around the town centre and canals.  We are surprised at the number of restaurants closed on Wednesday evening but Paul, our host, explains that many restaurants are family owned and run, and as schools have a half day on Wednesday many of the restaurants close as well. We find a lively and busy bar to eat then find a more relaxed café bar to have a drink. The Café Rose Red is worth a mention excellent range of beers including a fine selection of Trappist beers.

6 June – Bruges

A drive free day today. Bruges is best walked or cycled, cyclists come at you from every angle ringing bells and the providing the occasional expletive. We start the day with a walking tour of Bruges the first meeting point is in the main market square. Our guide is Nicola and she herds us all around the centre of Bruges confidently imparting knowledge and anecdotes delivered with some humour thrown in for good measure. This is a free walking tour by Legends, you donate if you think it’s worth it, it’s a great way to while away a couple of hours. Don’t rely on the timings on any flyers as ours were well out of date you’re best to look on their website for up to date itineraries.

We grabbed a focaccia and ate lunch on a bench near the Half Moon brewery. I notice a woman taking photos of me, I tell my navigator that I’ve been papped, but not sure why perhaps I look like some Belgium celebrity. My photographer sees that I find her behaviour slightly intrusive and comes over to explain that she is part of a camera club who are on a mission to photograph street life around the area. Well I’ve been called a number of things in my time but cannot remember being referred to as ‘Street Life’. Not long after, I settle down munching the remains of my focaccia when I notice a tall bald headed man with large spectacles looking at me inquisitively, I notice he has a camera equipped with a large lens complete with hood in his hand. He approaches me and points to the camera and having established my nationality, he enquires if he could take a photo of me. He’s rather surprised when I tell him to go ahead but he’s not the first one today to show a photographic interest in my profile. He laughs nervously and sets about taking a very close, close up. My navigator finds all the attention I’m getting very amusing. So, I have my couple of minutes of fame as passers by wonder who the ugly old git, repeatedly getting papped, on the bench is. I make my move from being a piece of living art entitled ‘street life’ into the brewery and reflect on the life of a celebrity over a couple of beers. As we work our way back to the hotel my navigator comes across a must stop museum for her, it’s the museum of the friet, yes, a chip museum. Unfortunately, its just closing at 4 o’clock but I manage to get a photo of her entering the building as a record of her intent. We eat at allegedly the oldest pub in Bruges but can’t say I was really impressed it was quirky and sociable sharing tables with other patrons but the food was at best ok.

7 June – Bruges to Arnhem

Paul, our host at the Hotel Fervery, provides some useful information on the route towards Arnhem and best opportunities to fill up.  Our journey is extended after running into an accident on the Antwerp M25 equivalent, its slow going and my navigator is having a row with google maps, but eventually we make our way towards our next stop just outside Arnhem. As we turn into the road leading to our next hotel, we’re greeted by around thirty or so young women dressed in matching orange sports wear limbering up on the road. I can see my navigator has a perplexed look on her face so I explain my next hotel choice was the Papendal, which also happens to be the Netherlands Olympic team training centre. My navigator’s expression changes from quizzical to condemnation, apparently, it’s not a good choice. As we make our way through the pine forest approach to the large hotel and sports centre car park, we come across other groups of athletes whizzing around on bikes and other just running with intent, my navigator says no more but the eyes roll upwards.

The hotel is indeed set in the middle of an Olympic standard sports complex and as we drive towards the front of the hotel, we can see on one side the Olympic rings depicted in low privet and the other side a couple of bronze running statues.  As we decant from the car and head for reception we are aware of a very loud and heavy bass beat that is probably accompanying a very large group workout somewhere on the complex, I can sense my navigator thinks her sleep may be at risk.

Check in is smooth and the hotel is rather quirky in that it is a celebration of past Olympics and various trophies particularly cycling. The room is large, functional with a view towards the car park and surrounding woodland, perfect.   We take a stroll around towards the bar and restaurant area and am amused to see the long jump marked out on the floor of the corridor complete with distances and images of jumpers on the wall. We make our way to the bar through a couple of groups of sports clad youth and take our drinks from the bar and have them on the outside terrace with a view of the golf course; I convince my navigator that this is indeed a very good choice of hotel.

One drawback is that the hotel is quite isolated so rather than drive we take dinner in the onsite ‘dug out’ restaurant which turns out to be one of the best meals so far. We’re tempted to jog back to our room but resist.

8 June – Arnhem

Breakfast was very good, the Hotel and Sports complex now appears to be full of people dressed in martial arts robes, obviously a major competition going on.

The choice of Arnhem for what is primarily a driving tour may not appear logical as there are not any roads in the area that I’m aware of that I, or anyone else for that matter, would want to drive. It is however a site of great military interest. I have previously gone on battlefield tours for both WW1 and WW11 but wanted to visit Arnhem because of the importance of the battle for its bridges and because of a family connection, so forgive me as I wander away from the drive to the past.

Remembering Sid

My wife’s (aka reluctant navigator) Uncle, Sidney ‘Sid’ Blackmore, was part of – A Company, 2nd Battalion, The Parachute Regiment, and saw service in North Africa and Sicily. On 17th September 1944 he parachuted into Arnhem and formed a bridgehead at the North side of the bridge. Sid was part of a two-man anti-tank gun team. On Wednesday 20th September Sid was wounded and lost consciousness. He was told that he was taken to the cellar of a nearby house and treated by British medics and believes he was surrendered with the other wounded and taken to Appeldoorn Hospital. He only recovered consciousness as he was being loaded onto a cattle truck to be taken to Stalag XIB as a POW. My understanding is that Sid escaped from the camp as it fell under Russian control and made his way back eventually to allied troops to return to the UK some 10 months later. Sid passed in 2014 and chose for his remains to be interred with his fallen comrades at the Airborne cemetery Oosterbeek in 2015.

And so it was that I chose the Papendal Hotel as its is ideally situated for the Airborne cemetery in Oosterbeek, Airborne museum Hartenstien, the ‘John Frost’ bridge and the drop zones used by the para forces.

We set off on a rainy and stormy morning to visit the Airborne Cemetery at Oosterbeek. Leaves were strewn across the well manicured lawns as a result of the strong winds but you can see that the grounds are well kept, as are all the graves maintained under the Commonwealth War Graves Commission. It’s a very tranquil and peaceful place in stark contrast to the events in September 1944 that resulted in the loss of so many lives. We’re surprised that there is no marker for Sid in the cemetery, although we know roughly where his ashes were placed, not even a note in the cemetery register. We make our own entry naming Sid in the visitors’ book and spend time reflecting what he and his comrades must have gone through at the age of just 22.

Our next stop is the Airborne museum Hartenstein, which tells the story of Operation Market Garden including the part played by the Netherland resistance, well worth a couple of hours of your day. Had a light lunch in the museum café before heading out to cross the John Frost bridge. We then tour around the drop zones including where we think Sid parachuted in some 75 years ago.

We head back to our Olympic haven where we intend to have dinner in the 2028 restaurant, so named because in 2028 it will have been a hundred years since the Netherlands hosted the Olympics in Amsterdam and there is a possibility of a bid for them to host it for their centenary.

9 June – Arnhem to Baden-Baden

I choose an orange T shirt for breakfast to mingle inconspicuously amongst the elite athletes but I think my cover is blown as the waiter starts talking to me in English. We have a late check out so take some time to wander around the complex which is set in some beautiful grounds before heading through Germany towards Baden-Baden for an overnight stop before driving the B500 down to Freudenstadt and then onwards to Constance.

We arrive at our hotel just outside Baden-Baden, its Sunday and very, very quiet. I’ve had better welcomes to be honest but try and develop the conversation with the man who checks us in asking when the restaurant will be open and he informs me that its closed, when I follow up with, ‘oh when did it close’, thinking that it might have been open for lunch he tells me about a year ago. The large sign outside clearly states Hotel and Restaurant but one out of two isn’t that bad. It looks like where going to find something local, preferable in walking distance. We’re given the key to the room and shown a couple of moves with the mechanism to make it open the door, strange but we’re in and agree to quickly get ready to go out and find somewhere for dinner. We place our valuables in the room safe set it to our usual 4-digit pin and are about to head for a restaurant when I think it best to get more Euros in case the smaller local restaurants don’t take plastic. We now find the room safe no longer wants to play ball, its not accepting our 4-digit sequence to open and I’m feeling hungry. We know the rather transactional hotelier is going to be on his way soon, the reception is not manned after 7pm so I rush down to explain the problem. As he is telling me I’ll have to wait half an hour before I can attempt to open the safe again, I wonder if I have a half-eaten pizza in my rucksack. Eventually I think the hotelier wants to get away more than I need a something to eat and he pulls some strange moves on the safe which includes removing the batteries and putting in a secret code with one hand as he covers the key board with the other and hey presto we are in. I decide to leave my remaining valuables for potential burglars to steal rather than have to go through any more magic moves and head on out. The first restaurant we come to as recommended by our magician/hotelier is closed so we continue to walk to where we think another might be, according to trip advisor, and eventually come to a perfect Hotel complete with family restaurant that’s open and serving meals in a lovely garden. We quickly make a rough interpretation of the German menu and order and are pleasantly surprised with an excellent meal and very good local Riesling wine. We make a note to visit the local wine cooperative tomorrow to grab a couple of bottles on the way through to Baden-Baden.

10 June – Baden -Baden to Kreuzlingen

Fortunately, this was our only one-night stop and soon after breakfast we were on the road back to Baden-Baden to pick up the B500 for a drive through the Black Forest road to Freudenstadt. We pulled in at the wine cooperative to find it closed and worked out that it was a bank holiday in Germany. We are surrounded by steep terraced hills the tips of which are draped with ominous grey clouds. We pick up the B500 after a brief drive through Baden-Baden and find the road in good condition with long sweeping bends. The forest views while beautiful are restricted by the low cloud and there is a dampness in the air. We stop at Mumslee, a very small lake which is crowded and has lots of souvenir shops and coaches. We put the crowd down to the bank holiday but either way could not really recommend it as a stop. We pass through the GE/CH border and there is no need to show any documentation but we take the opportunity to stop and buy a vignette for the Swiss motorways. We soon arrive at our next stop in Kreuzlingen on the shore of lake Constance, my navigator is pleased that this is a larger more corporate style hotel. Check in is smooth we get a friendly welcome and useful information from the helpful receptionist and an upgraded room, plenty of parking, all good. The Hotel while in Switzerland is in an excellent position close to the lake and within a short walk of Constance town centre, so we go and explore. As we walk around the old town, we find ourselves looking at a restaurant that we have used some three years ago so take our evening meal there. We stroll back through the harbour area and have a nightcap in the hotel.

11 June – Constance

As we haven’t booked breakfast my navigator requests a lay in so we are off to a slower start on this mainly non driving day. We make use of a nearby Swiss Lidl for croissants and coffee before parking up and heading by foot to explore the lakeside Seeburg park opposite the hotel and then to the Basilica of Ulrich (complete with the depiction of the passion of Christ). My navigator is not enthusiastic about the visit to the Basilica, particularly as it is in the opposite direction of Constance old town where we plan to spend the most of the day. However, we are both impressed by its beauty, worth a visit if you are in the area.

We spend the rest of the day wandering around the old town then along the harbour front where we stop for a late lunch. We return to the old town in the evening but it is very quiet and there is a chill in the air so we head back to the hotel taking in a disused border check point as we move from Germany to the Swiss side of the border.

12 June – Kreuzlingen to Bormio

Before heading off to Bormio I check the route to make sure we stay the Swiss side of the border with Austria so an Austrian vignette is not required. The same also applies with the border with Lichenstien, here a vignette is not required but there is a requirement to have an International Certificate for Motor Vehicles (ICMV) with you as well as the V5. Route 13 A1 continues to run the Swiss side of the Austrian and Lichtenstein border. As we travel on route 28, we have the option of using the car train through the Vereina tunnel or taking the Fluela Pass, we’re here to drive so take the latter option, although it adds at least 30 minutes on the fairly long journey. The weather is appalling, torrential rain whipped across the roads by strong winds and thick grey cloud that bring an evening gloom to a mid-morning drive. The Fluela is a joy to drive even in these conditions. The snow remains either side of the pass and my navigator reports “raging torrents of water”.

We come off the route 28, more by accident rather than plan, and find ourselves going through the Munt La Schera tunnel (Euro15 toll) to Livigno rather than continuing round on the 28 and eventually coming into Bormio through the Umbrail and Stelvio passes. Still plenty of time tomorrow to explore those. This route takes us past Lago di Livigno and into Livigno itself. Livigno is an isolated area and quiet, particularly as its outside the skiing season, but the price of petrol looks as though it’s a decade behind the mainstream prices, I think it’s a mistake but fill up and its correct, just over a Euro a litre compared to 1.7 in other parts of Italy and around 1.5 in Switzerland. I later find out that Livigno enjoys a special tax status and is duty free. We continue driving the SS301 through the Passo di Foscagno into Bormio to reach the next Hotel where we are staying for a couple of nights.

We have a mountain view room with a balcony and the family owned Hotel has racing memorabilia in one of its lounges, obviously a Porsche fan.

We chat to the Hotel receptionist and find the Stelvio pass is closed from the Swiss side but open from the Italian side. We will need to check the status of the other passes tomorrow as there has been a lot of late snow, the Stelvio was only opened a few days ago. We spend some time on our balcony enjoying the mountain view and the improved weather with the sun bursting through. We wander into town which is just a few minutes walk away and find a traditional Italian trattoria for a light pasta supper before making our way back and taking a drink in the hotel and study the racing photos and trophies.

13 June – Bormio

We take breakfast and walk into town to get some fresh bread and cheese for a lunch at an Alpine stop. We pack the car and set off for the Stelvio.

The Stelvio Pass has a reputation for being one of the great mountain passes and it is indeed a joy to drive. The snow begins to thicken as we rise in altitude with switch backs coming in tight groups. There are plenty of photo opportunities and a couple of information points indicating the troop movements during the first world war and danger of newly exposed munitions as the Stelvio glacier recedes. As we had expected the pass is not yet fully open but we can drive to the summit. There are many cyclists making their way up the gradients and we feel slightly guilty that we are not putting in as much effort as them. At the summit there were a collection of motorbikes, high performance cars together with more mundane camper vans. The route through to the Swiss side is blocked by a wall of snow.

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We can’t go any further across the Stelvio so we head back down a short way until we bear right onto the Umbrail Pass. This is again a great drive but stretches of it are narrow and without guard rails. It starts with sweeping switch backs but the scenery changes as you head to the Swiss side and you descend down a densely forested area with very tight switch backs and less room to manoeuvre.

We complete the Umbrail Pass as we join route 28 at Santa Maria and turn around to drive it in reverse and traverse the final section of the Stelvio to return to Bormio.

At the Hotel we find the car park full and so park in the secure underground park. The increased parking is due to a cycle competition on the Stelvio Pass which will be closed for the event so our timing is spot on. We relax on our balcony and soak up the sun which is moving from the centre of our balcony to set in the west.

14 June – Bormio to Castiglione d’Intelve

We check out of the Miromanti promptly, load up the car and take the SS38 down towards Tirano. I do not expect the drive to match yesterdays stunning and challenging roads but the scenery is dramatic and the mix of tunnels and galleried tunnels breaks up the monotony of some of the boring main roads.

We follow the SS340 to drive around the northern shore of lake Como. The road provides some beautiful views of the lake and its small harbours but it has many areas where the road is constricted by buildings making uncontrolled one-way sections. This is manageable by cars but there are HGV’s and Camper vans using the road that present many tight spots and delays. At Argegno we take the SP13 and head towards Lugano to find our next stop, a Grand Tourisimo accommodation in the Castiglione d’Intelve region. We have stayed here before when touring the Lake Como area and are happy to use it again this time to visit Lake Maggiore.

The accommodation is tucked away off the beaten track and difficult to find but we check in and order a couple of cold beers. The accommodation is run by Fabio and Milena who provide the option of eating a fixed menu 4 course meal in the evening, we don’t want to drive again today and know the meals are superb so confirm a table. The meal is not a disappointment and after we retire to our balcony to plan the next day and listen to the thunder rolling overhead.

15 June – Lake Maggiore, Contra Dam and the Vale of Verzasca.

We have previously driven around the Lake Como area so we have a choice of either parking up near a boat terminal on Lake Como and take the boat to a few places of interest including Bollagio or take a drive to Lake Maggiore where we have not been before; we choose the latter. We head up to Lake Lugano taking the SP14 to drive around the eastern shore, as the Western route using the SP13 is more stressful with very narrow roads and limited passing places.

Lake Lugano is a beautiful glacial lake with deep blue waters and a picturesque road running along the shore. Before we visit Lake Maggiore, we head north to the Contra Dam, also known as the Verzasca Dam, famous for the scenes from James Bond ‘Golden Eye’. People bungie jump from here, paying some CHF 250 for the privilege, I felt sick just taking photos of them so not something for me. I couldn’t persuade my navigator to have a go either, she says she would rather read a map, so it’s a definite no.

Once we had our fill of the dam and the jumpers, we head further North to explore the Vale of Verzasca before turning around and heading back towards Lake Maggiore.  We follow the Eastern lakeside road which has some picturesque views of the lake before heading towards Versailes we intended to drive by lake Varase but a road closure forced us to take a more convoluted, congested and boring route. We then headed for the SS340 north of Como to drive along the lake until we turned to our accommodation at Argegno on the SP13. A much longer and tiring drive than intended.

16 June – Castiglione d’Intelve to Sedrun

Fabio always makes time for everyone and has a wealth of local knowledge, we do not see a great deal of Milena as she appears to be the powerhouse of the kitchen but as Fabio says “when Milena isn’t here, I’m the boss”. We settle our bill, load up the car and head for Sedrun which is just outside of Andermatt in Switzerland. We opt to again take the picturesque drive around Lake Lugano and skirt around Lugano itself to take route 2 towards Bellinzona. We have the option of the Saint Gotthard tunnel or the pass, we again take the pass option, so much more interesting than a tunnel and we have time on our side. We get off the route 2 to fuel up and have a quick break at Biasca then head up the St Gotthard Pass. The pass exceeds my expectations with long and winding switch backs and the majority well surfaced. At the top there is an area to stop have a break and look around but it is very cold.

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We soon get back in the car and follow some of the older road before we rejoined the main pass.  We then stay on route 2 through Andermatt where we take the Oberalp Pass to get to our accommodation at Sedrun. The Oberalp is another gem of a pass, well maintained and a good mix of tight turns, long switch backs and straight runs, all running through dramatic scenery.

We drive the pass and continue on into Sedrun to find our next Hotel. Its again quiet as an off-season resort but they do have their own golf course. We are met by the female receptionist in full Swiss traditional costume, you don’t see many of them in South West England, we make our way to our room which has a spectacular mountain view. The parking is in a general parking lot down the road so not the best of situations but it is very quiet and I don’t imagine a high crime rate in the area. The Hotel restaurant looks slightly pretentious and with no one else eating there it lacked any atmosphere so we have a walk around. With many restaurants closed we end up at a livelier Hotel restaurant for a meal before making our way back to the Hotel. The receptionist is now a man, in normal attire much less impressive but a bit more informative on the state of the passes in the area. Unfortunately, the Susten Pass is closed due, we think, to rock fall and the Furka Pass is also closed but may be open tomorrow at 16:00. The Furka is closed due the high levels of snow and the pass not yet cleared.

17 June Sedrun – Oberalp, Susten and Furka Passes.

There are only a few couples taking breakfast so it’s a relatively brisk affair, we are soon ready for the day’s drive.  Sedrun is well situated to drive two loops of passes in the region, we could drive towards Disentis taking the Lukmanier pass then return to Andermatt via the Gotthard Pass. But this is a long drive and would also take in the Gotthard Pass which although well worth driving we have already experienced. So, we opt to make the best of whats available on the other loop. Ideally if all passes were open, we would drive the Oberalp Pass back to Andermatt take the Susten pass to Innertkirchen then the Grimsel Pass and complete the loop via the Furka pass back to Andermatt. However, the weather conditions and state of the mountain passes is fluid especially at the start of the season so we are left with making the most of whats open on the Susten Pass and holding out for the opening of the Furka pass. As we only have one full day left here it will be our last opportunity to drive these passes on this trip. We take the Oberalp Pass to Andermatt which is just as much fun driving from the other direction and from Andermatt head towards Wassen and the Susten pass.

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This is a lower road and less snow but with beautiful green hillsides many with pine forests others with small herds of cows grazing. We stop for a break and amazingly spot a helicopter moving logs from a high position in the mountains down to the road level.

We initially think this is a one-off event but the helicopter just keeps going one log at a time, surely it can’t be economical to move logs like this. Were so intrigued we watch the action for half an hour before moving on. We decide to head back towards Andermatt and check the position of the Furka pass. The snow melt creates some ferocious waterfalls and fast flowing streams, quite a spectacle.

We park up just outside of Andermatt in Hospental with a green hillside as a backdrop and the occasional clatter of a cow bell as the soundtrack. The Furka pass sign is ominously showing the pass as closed. We decide to have a picnic while waiting to see if the pass is going to open.

There is no traffic on the road and in our parking area there is just one other car but we are soon joined by a group of three cars of fellow Brits who are touring around the area. As we chat about our cars and tell them about the pass closure a maintenance crew comes and turns the pass notice from closed to open. We quickly finish our picnic as the group of three moves on to drive the pass before following them up.

I must admit I was impressed that the pass was opened bang on the advertised time so shortly after  16:00 we were driving the pass. We were one of a just a handful of cars and motorbikes to be the first to drive the pass on its opening. The weather conditions were perfect with strong sunshine continuing the heavy melt of the late winter snow, to such an extent that for many parts of the pass, at higher altitude, water was running across the road making some of the switch backs challenging. The snow in some parts was still banked high on either side of the road providing some really dramatic scenery. At the top of the pass the panoramic view was breath taking with snow draped mountain peaks and exposed grey rock faces. The fact that we managed to drive the pass almost on our own also added to a very personal experience.

The Furka Pass was used in a chase scene in the James Bond Film ‘Golden Eye’ but has not had as much attention as other passes such as the Stelvio so I was surprised by both its beauty and the great combinations of switch backs and longer straights,  there were many sections where you get into a natural rhythm as you accelerate, brake and turn. All in all, for me it was the drive of the tour, my navigator even got out of the car at the summit and had a play in the snow.

Once we had driven the Furka we could have continued on to the Grimsel but time was not on our side and we still had to drive the Furka back to Andermatt and then up the Oberalp Pass before getting to our Hotel so we turn around and drive the Furka back to Andermatt which is just as exhilarating on the reverse run. In Andermatt we stop and see if there are any good places to eat but are not really impressed so decide to get the final leg of driving over and return to our Hotel and park up for the night before walking out for a meal.

18 June – Sedrum to Saint Thierry

We had a long and, compared with the previous day, mundane drive ahead of us. This represents the longest leg being some 380 miles and likely to take over 7 hours. We get up early for a prompt start, this does not please my navigator who also is struggling with the breakfast choices and has yet to perfect the technique to get the perfect soft-boiled egg.

Another example of traditional Swiss dress is presented at check out. We fill up with fuel before leaving Sedrun behind us and driving the Oberalp Pass for the last time to Andermatt to pick up route 2 to Lucerne, driving through Switzerland into France. The fastest route is the criteria today, no searching for the best roads, although we are able to take in the beautiful lakes of Lucerne and Sempach. The main drive through France is as expected boring but one plus point is that there is hardly any traffic on the roads, where is every one? Our next destination is actually just outside Reims and is a Champagne House this meets with approval from my navigator. The Champagne House is actually in the Saint Thierry region which is a few miles from the centre of Reims. I begin to suspect that something is not right in terms of where Google maps is taking us as we continue to head into the centre of Reims and we get the ‘you have arrived at your destination’ message in what I assume to be the geographical centre of Reims and what is actually a busy one way street just outside a coffee house with parasoled tables overlooking the road. As I try to pull in to reset our destination my navigator’s defences are already fully up, apparently, it’s my fault. I don’t think the cars and vans behind me who are eagerly awaiting my next move and the coffee sipping cliental of the coffee house want to hear my side of the story so we quickly put in the address of the actual accommodation rather than the nearest city and quickly get on our way. I see we have an additional 18 minutes now on our journey and to round it off nicely as we leave Reims, we find ourselves on one of the many toll roads in the area.

We find our next accommodation part of the Champagne Mont d’Hor, it is a working winery/farm that also provides rooms as a hotel. The area is so flat particularly compared to the stunning alpine scenery but has a rural beauty of its own. The approach road cuts between extensive fields where green crops grow and leads to an impressive courtyard with the working farm on one side and the accommodation, which resembles a converted barn on the other. We check in and are shown to our room which overlooks a field of well tended grape vines but not of the Mont d’Hor rather the Veuve Clicquot.

The building has an outside terrace complete with tables and chairs that we can also use. There are a few good reasons why I chose this accommodation; Reims is a convenient stop over point for the Eurotunnel at Calais, it’s in the Champagne region of France and also is close to the site of the old F1 Grand Prix circuit at Reims-Gueux. We decide to pop out to get a bite to eat and check out the position of the old racing circuit. We return to park, there is only one other car in the ample car park with plenty of spaces so we leave a space between us and the other car and park up.

19 June – Reims Cathedral and Circuit de Reims-Gueux

We find that another group has joined us overnight and of all the spaces in the car park they decide to park in between the only two cars there, immediately creating double ding zones! This must be a security issue, pack parking, probably originates from the days of the wild west when wagon trains formed a circle to camp at night. But it appears odd behaviour when there is so much car parking space available, perhaps they are just being friendly.

We take up the option of a tour of the Champagne house, including a Champagne tasting, this morning after breakfast and it’s really worthwhile. Soléne is an excellent guide and obviously passionate about the business and Champagne. The tasting of their Champagne is also a great experience although I confess my nose/pallet would not have conjured up Soléne’s elegant description and this was also in English rather than her native tongue. I have never been a great fan of Champagne but now have a better understanding of the complexities of the manufacturing process and appreciate more why it commands such a premium. My navigator has always been a fan and convinces me that we should buy a case, I agree as long as we can get it in the car for the trip home. We chat to one of the brothers who own the farm and he tells us that it has been in the family for five generations. He again is passionate about his business and has plans to develop a red wine that is also characterised by the region and we wish him well. A stop at Reims would not be complete without a visit to the Cathedral so we head there with a view to visit the racing circuit later in the afternoon. Street parking near the Cathedral was full but there were plenty of spaces available in the nearby underground car park which was very reasonably priced. The Cathedral was beautiful with high elegant pillars and stunning original stained glass. There are examples in the Cathedral of a more modern interpretation of stained glass in an abstract form but for me this did not work, each to his own, I guess. There is a lot of restoration going on but it did not detract from the beauty of the building. It was a lovely sunny day so we take lunch in a nearby outside café and watch the world go by for half an hour.

Next we visit the old Grand Prix circuit at Geuax this will be our final visit of the tour. The circuit has not been used for racing since the late 60’s and has seen the likes of Jackie Stewart and Sterling Moss racing there. The site still has a road going through it and is sad that it’s no longer an active racing circuit but good that it’s still there being maintained by, I believe, local enthusiasts. We park up and take a look around the old pit blocks and stand, take a few photos and try and to remember what it must have been like in its former glory with the sounds of high revving engines being blipped and tuned, the crackle of exhausts and smells of petrol and oils mixing with a whiff of burning rubber. It is eerily silent now save the occasional passing of a car and perhaps a similar minded driver stopping to take in the scene. We drive off to the next turning point, a roundabout before the village of Geaux, then drive back at a lick through pits and stands as a final salute to a time gone by.

20 June – Saint Thierry to Home

Our last day of the tour and as we breakfast, we look out at a cloudy sky and heavy rain falling. We pack the car and make space for a case of Champagne, settle our bill, and thank Soléne, who has provided a first rate service, so helpful. The Cayman swallows up the case of Champers and we bid farewell to the Mont D’Hor and head to Calais. We arrive early at Calais but are only offered a 20 minute earlier crossing which we take. It’s then the usual stop start journey and 50 mile an hour restrictions around the M25/M4 to home.

The Cayman S is a well balanced car with its mid engine design and the 3.4 flat six engine providing a great torque range across the gears. Steering is precise but forgiving even if turning late for some of the acute switch backs it holds the road giving driver feedback and confidence. We covered some 2400 miles and I was impressed with the ability of the car to soak up the motorway, or long haul, driving with ease. The standard seats are firm providing restraint and support for the more dynamic driving through the Alpine passes yet provide a very acceptable level of comfort on sustained motorway driving. The engine note produced through the Carnewal exhaust is captivating and when amplified, driving through tunnels and galleried tunnels, was exquisite. As you move up and down the gears you are rewarded with a rasp, gurgle and crackle that is unique and entertaining. It has got to be said, although a minor point, the Sat Nav is perhaps the worst in car system I’ve come across, totally counter intuitive. Fortunately I always had my navigator alongside providing sage advice. In summary the drive took us through seven countries, many really interesting places and some truly spectacular scenery. The Cayman performed impeccably once again, providing an exhilarating drive on the Black Forest high road and all of the Alpine passes; a superb driving experience.